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Manufacturer Limited One
Year Warranty
Our
products carry a Manufacturer Limited One Year Warranty against
workmanship and materials under normal driving conditions as long as
the original purchaser owns the vehicle in which the parts were
installed. Any alternations or problems due to improper
installation will not be covered. In
the event of failure due to defect in material or workmanship, the
original purchaser is responsible for the cost of labor, antifreeze
and any additional parts required for re-installation.
All
vehicles used for commercial use like taxi cabs, police cars, rental
cars or any other fleet vehicle is excluded from our warranty
due to extreme conditions beyond normal usage.
Also
excluded from warranty are cooling products that have been altered,
subjected to misuse, abuse, negligence or operating conditions other
what such equipment was designed. This also does not cover damage to
connection threads stripped during installation or any chemical
effects of water, steam, or other liquid, gases or agents present in
the system or operating environment of the equipment or the failure
of the vehicle warning system.
Flushing the system
It is
important to flush (Drain and refill) your vehicles cooling system
before installing the new radiator. Failure to do this will void
warranty. Distilled water is recommended to mix with your
manufacturers recommended coolant. Evidence of hard water in the
radiator will void warranty.
Warranty
Exclusions
Warranty excludes commercial
vehicles due to
extreme conditions.
1. Improper
installation:
Damage as the result of improper or incomplete installation, or
abuse by the installer.
2. Stripped
threads:
Cross-threading any fitting that results in damage to the threads;
includes transmission and engine oil cooler lines, drain cocks or
sensors.
3. Excessive
heat is the most
common cause of radiator failure. Radiators with plastic end tanks
are very vulnerable to steam erosion. If the coolant level is low
and the engine starts to run hot, steam can erode and melt a hole
right through an end tank. White deposits on the inside of the
plastic are evidence that hot steam rather than coolant was flowing
into the tank. If you find this kind of damage, check the thermostat and
pressure test the system for leaks after the radiator has been
repaired or replaced.
4. Electrolysis: Aluminum
is more vulnerable to electrolytic corrosion than either
copper/brass or cast iron because aluminum is a highly reactive
metal. When the corrosion inhibitors are used up and the PH of the
coolant drops, aluminum is eaten away.
5. Extreme
Pressure: Splits
in radiator seams or between the tubes and header may be the result
of too much pressure in the cooling system. This may be caused by
using a pressure cap with the wrong rating (a 15-lb. cap on a system
that’s rated at 5 lbs.), or by head gasket leaks that allow exhaust
to enter the cooling system. Pressure testing the cooling system
will tell you if there are any internal coolant leaks, and pressure
testing the cap will tell you if it has the correct rating.
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